If you make jewelry to sell – or to wear every day – the type of gold you choose matters more than almost any other decision. Two beads can look identical on the day you buy them and behave completely differently six months later. One keeps its warm shine; the other wears through to a dull base metal.
In this guide we compare the four options you will see on every jewelry supply site – solid gold, gold filled, gold vermeil and gold plated – using the definitions in the US Federal Trade Commission's Jewelry Guides, so you know exactly what you are paying for.
The quick answer
|
Type |
What it is |
How long it lasts |
Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Solid gold (10K–24K) |
Gold alloy all the way through |
A lifetime |
Fine jewelry, heirloom pieces |
|
Gold filled |
A thick layer of karat gold bonded to a brass core – at least 1/20 (5%) of the item's total weight |
Many years with normal wear |
Everyday jewelry you sell or wear daily |
|
Gold vermeil |
Sterling silver plated with at least 2.5 microns of 10K+ gold |
Several years; silver underneath |
Statement pendants and beads at a mid-range price |
|
Gold plated |
A very thin electroplated layer (from 0.175 microns) over base metal |
Months to a couple of years |
Fashion jewelry, prototypes, budget pieces |
What is gold filled?
Gold filled is made by bonding a sheet of karat gold to a brass core with heat and pressure. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, an item can only be called "gold filled" when the gold layer is at least 10 karat and makes up at least 1/20th of the total weight of the metal. That is why you will often see gold-filled findings stamped "14/20" or "1/20 14K GF".
Because the gold layer is many times thicker than plating, gold filled does not flake or rub off with normal wear. It can be cleaned with a polishing cloth, is suitable for most people with sensitive skin, and is the industry favourite for professional handmade jewelry. Our 14K gold filled seamless round beads – from tiny 2mm spacers up to 12mm statement rounds – are a good example.
Is gold filled real gold?
Yes. The outer layer is genuine karat gold – usually 14K – so it looks, feels and wears like gold. What sits underneath is brass, which is how gold filled stays affordable compared with solid gold.
What is gold vermeil?
Vermeil (pronounced "ver-may") is sterling silver coated with gold. In the US, the FTC says vermeil must have a gold layer of at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick. The sterling silver base means that if the gold ever wears thin, you see silver – not a darker base metal – and the piece still has precious-metal value.
Vermeil works well for sculptural pieces where solid gold would be too expensive, such as our 24K gold vermeil leaf pendants or satin vermeil pillow beads.
What is gold plated?
Gold plating uses electricity to deposit a thin layer of gold onto another metal, usually brass, copper or pewter. The FTC's minimum for "gold electroplate" is just 0.175 microns – roughly 1/400th of the thickness of a human hair. Anything thinner may only be described as "gold flashed" or "gold washed". Items labelled "heavy gold electroplate" carry at least 2.5 microns.
Plated findings are perfect for costume jewelry, seasonal designs and testing a new style before investing in gold filled. Expect the colour to fade faster on parts that rub – clasps, jump rings and ear wires – so many designers use plated beads and charms but switch to gold-filled findings at the stress points.
Gold filled vs gold plated: side by side
|
Gold filled |
Gold plated |
|
|---|---|---|
|
Amount of gold |
≥ 5% of total weight |
A microscopic surface layer |
|
Tarnish & wear |
Very resistant; will not flake |
Can rub off, especially on clasps and rings |
|
Skin sensitivity |
Generally well tolerated |
Base metal may irritate once worn through |
|
Price |
Mid-range |
Lowest |
|
Can you sell it as 'gold'? |
Yes – as '14K gold filled' |
Only as 'gold plated' |
Which should you choose?
-
Selling everyday jewelry online? Use gold filled for anything that touches skin or takes strain: jump rings, headpins, eye pins and ear wires.
-
Making personalised gifts? Gold filled letter and initial charms keep their shine long after the occasion.
-
Designing on a budget or for trend pieces? Plated charms from our plated charms collection and TierraCast pewter give rich colour for a fraction of the price.
-
Want precious-metal value without solid-gold prices? Choose vermeil.
How to care for gold-filled jewelry
-
Store pieces in a zip bag or anti-tarnish pouch away from humidity.
-
Wipe with a soft polishing cloth – avoid abrasive cleaners.
-
Remove before swimming in chlorine or using strong chemicals.
-
Mild soap and warm water are fine; dry thoroughly.
Frequently asked questions
Does gold filled tarnish?
Gold filled is highly tarnish-resistant because the surface is solid karat gold. Over many years it can dull slightly, but a polishing cloth brings the shine back.
Can I shower with gold filled jewelry?
Occasional water is fine, but soaps and chlorine leave residue. To keep pieces looking their best, take them off before showering or swimming.
What does 14/20 mean on gold filled findings?
It means the gold layer is 14 karat and makes up 1/20th (5%) of the item's total weight – the minimum for the 'gold filled' label in the US.
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Ready to upgrade your designs? Browse our 14K gold filled beads and gold filled charms & pendants – available in small packs and wholesale quantities. |